As of last night, Stellina at 12th and Pike (home of tiny salt and pepper shakers as well as delicious food that sometimes wears a “pastry hat”) is open for dinner. This is especially good news if you’re trying to get a table next door at the new incarnation of La Spiga at, say, 6 p.m. on a Wednesday (or, say, 7 p.m. on a Monday) and they are completely booked, which was been the case this last week. People are crazy about it, and for good reason: The space is scream-and-die beautiful. Likewise: the eggplant. But if they serve you mushy, overcooked pasta (which has been the case with me twice this last week: oh, the sorrow), don’t be a martyr: Send it back. They will be nice about it, and life will improve dramatically with the pasta re-do. More in next week’s paper.

(Note that if you want to go to La Spiga tonight, you will be forced to go to Stellina or elsewhere, as La Spiga is closed for a private party, something I find intensely annoying that seems to be happening more and more around here. Like the last three times I tried to go to Sitka & Spruce. Oh, the sorrow.)