For the purposes of the test, three representative weenies were selected. (We shall set aside the veggie dogs as a dangerous fringe element.) First, the low: the bottom-shelf supermarket dog. When I was a child, we were fed Bar-S—containing, among other things, unspecified tidbits of pork and beef and mechanically separated chicken, as well as corn syrup (2 percent or less of the latter, the label hastens to reassure). While among a certain set nowadays, serving kids Bar-S would get you reported to Child Protective Services, it claims to be the number-one-selling hot dog in America (with the dubious corollary claim "Only the best is branded Bar-S"). Interpreting the runes on my QFC receipt, it appears that last Saturday, a package of Bar-S Classic Franks was on special for just one dollar. That's 12 cents per dog. TWELVE CENTS. Is this a great country or what? (Or what.)
Seattle is represented elsewhere in Best Food Writing 2012, too: Local chef Greg Atkinson's recipe for homemade mayonnaise made the cut. (Bethany reviewed Atkinson's restaurant Marché back in June.) Congratulations to Atkinson and to Bethany!
* It's not Bethany's first time at this particular rodeo; her work has appeared in Best Food Writing anthologies of years past, too, which I'm pretty sure means she's quantifiably the best food writer in the world.