
Recently, Penguin Press produced a hardcover version of Food Rules that costs more than twice what the original did. All it adds (besides the hard cover, a few additional notes by Pollan, and a glossy paper stock) is a series of illustrations by Maira Kalman. I'm a fan of Kalman's Illustrated Elements of Style that came out a few years ago; her artwork was a witty complement to the classic text that sometimes enlivened (and sometimes snarked at) the writing.
But here, Kalman's drawings seem unnecessary and dumb. People work on farms. Families sit down for dinner. There are some kitchen utensils sitting, I guess, on a table or something. They're an intrusion to the text, not a willing partner. I feel resentful toward Kalman's illustrations because Pollan's common-sense rules feel so important and necessary—the book's approach to food feels simple, and revelatory, and revelatory in its own simplicity. I wish the publisher had gone the other way with Food Rules, and published it on rough paper stock, with no adornment, and sold it as cheaply as possible. It should be a ubiquitous pamphlet that people buy for their friends in bulk, not a bourgeois art object.
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