Twenty years ago there were 120,000 lions in Africa. Today, there are 25,000 and that number is falling fast - all because of the eternal conflict between man and beast.After leaving the safety of the jungle, the proto-humans entered a savanna ruled by ten types of big cats and packs of hyenas. This, I believe, was the first step toward our big brains. The other step was cooking, which, as the primatologist Richard Wrangham has pointed out, facilitated the shift of resources from guts (smaller) to the brain (bigger). Last was something like Robin Dunbar's social brain and grooming hypothesis. So this Maasai business of hunting and killing lions possibly celebrates an ancient and decisive victory in the development of mind, human mind.But in the Chuylu Hills in southern Kenya, numbers are actually increasing. And it is thanks chiefly to one of the lions' oldest enemies - the Maasai people. And this is a tribe for whom killing lions has always been a rite of passage.
My cameraman, Ben Mitchell, and I were flying low over iconic Africa in a tin-pot but trusty 40-year-old Cessna, its speeding shadow spooking herds of zebra and wildebeest. The great bulk of Mount Kilimanjaro loomed in the cloud.
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