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Friday, October 15, 2010

For Your Stomach's Consideration: Lunch at the Berliner in Pioneer Square

Posted by on Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 11:35 AM

WANT NOW.
  • WANT NOW.

A gentleman named Ken called with a tip about a new place in Pioneer Square called the Berliner. The Berliner serves doner kebab, the Turkish version of a gyro or shwarma, which, when well-made, is a mighty good sandwich. From Ken's voicemail:

It’s fabulous food. I think it would be well worth your while to go there and taste it. It’s called the Berliner. I just wanted to give you a heads up. I’m not connected to the restaurant at all—I’m a psychoanalyst who happens to really enjoy eating there, and I want it to succeed.

I took Ken's advice, and Ken is correct. The sandwiches—chicken or lamb—come in the customary pita bread, or stuffed into a Grand Central ciabatta roll, or as wraps; they're messy and spicy and great, with variations like the Fiery Kreutzberg Doner (chili sauce, banana peppers, more) available for the adventurous.

Local guy Victor Twu became such a fan of the doner kebab served on the street in Berlin that he opened the Berliner a few weeks ago in a space that used to be a Quizno's. It's order-at-the-counter, with tables to sit at, high ceilings, and some nice old Pioneer Square exposed brick. Lines at lunch are long but move fast. Find the Berliner kitty-corner from where Elliott Bay Book Company used to be. All lunch besides a lamb Berliner doner on pita now seems unsatisfactory. Sigh.

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Comments (20) RSS

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1
"where Elliott Bay Book Company used to be"
So sad :(
Posted by ian on October 15, 2010 at 11:40 AM
Martin H. Duke 2
Ugh. I absolutely inhale these things when I've visited Europe. I'd love to go to this place but 11-5 M-F is not helpful to someone who doesn't work downtown.
Posted by Martin H. Duke http://seattletransitblog.com on October 15, 2010 at 11:52 AM
COMTE 3
I really miss the doner shop that used to be where the consignment clothing place is now on B'way...

When I was traveling through Europe a number of years ago, I practically lived on doner kebabs in Germany. They were literally everywhere, and had the advantage of being cheap, filling and tasty; sort of like McDonald's, except for the tasty part.

(Plus, I got to use the handful of Turkish tourist phrases still remaining in my long-term memory from 20 some-odd years prior, which invariably elicited a look of surprise from whomever was behind the counter; Germans, apparently, not being much inclined to learn any parts of the languages of the innumerable Middle-Eastern immigrants who poured into the country in the late '90's/early '00's.)
Posted by COMTE http://www.chriscomte.com on October 15, 2010 at 11:53 AM
Fnarf 4
Oh, great. They close at five, and I'll be marching past there with the Sounders fans at seven. Dag nab it.
Posted by Fnarf http://www.facebook.com/fnarf on October 15, 2010 at 12:13 PM
5
Was the switch to this place not unnaturally fast? I walk by this storefront everyday, and one day it was a Quizno's... and the next, it was The Berliner! There was no transitional period!
Posted by Sarah L. on October 15, 2010 at 12:47 PM
6
If they are as good as the Doener you can get in Germany, I will be visiting regularly. My experience with Doener-Kebap in the U.S. so far as been dismal.
Posted by David Wright on October 15, 2010 at 12:56 PM
7
I walked in and right back out because the prices seemed awfully high for lunch. Guess I'll have to give it a try. At those prices though, I doubt I'll be a regular.
Posted by WestPole on October 15, 2010 at 1:19 PM
josh 8
there's also "kebab" next to the whiskey bar; not sure if they are doner style though...
Posted by josh http://www.sciencevsromance.net on October 15, 2010 at 1:22 PM
Cornichon 9
They close far too early. In Berlin, they'd be open at 2 AM selling Currywurst and such. Missing a good bet with that 5 PM curfew.
Posted by Cornichon http://cornichon.org on October 15, 2010 at 1:33 PM
10

@5 The owner (Victor) was also the owner of the Quizno's franchise that was there previously. I guess he got sick of honey bourbon chicken.
Posted by Bill Nordwall on October 15, 2010 at 1:44 PM
seandr 11
My stomach says thank you, and that it will forward this information on to my tongue, who generally makes the decisions about where or what I eat.
Posted by seandr on October 15, 2010 at 1:55 PM
McGee 12
Sweet mother! I loves the fuck outta a doner kebap.
Posted by McGee on October 15, 2010 at 2:20 PM
13
thanks I saw that Quizno's had instantly turned into the Berliner overnight so I will be sure to check it out
Posted by jbonz on October 15, 2010 at 2:25 PM
JoeG 14
@3: yup. Loved that place on BWay. So sad the proprietor was deported shortly after Sept. 11 2001.
Posted by JoeG on October 15, 2010 at 2:45 PM
boxofbirds 15
Went there today for lunch. SO GOOD. The garlic yogurt sauce is tasty, lamb was well seasoned, tender lamby goodness.
Posted by boxofbirds on October 15, 2010 at 2:53 PM
16
@4: The owner said on the phone today that he's trying to stay open for games, so you might be in luck!

@7: The doners are $5.99 to $6.79—seems like standard lunch prices (if not on the less-expensive side) to me...?

@3 and 14: Me too. Sigh.
Posted by Bethany Jean Clement on October 15, 2010 at 3:06 PM
Callie 17
Oh SHIT! I have been looking for doner kebabs since i got back from Austria three years ago. SO STOKED! Although they are only open when I am at work, which is terribly inconvenient.
Posted by Callie http://www.facebook.com/Klosetnerd on October 15, 2010 at 4:19 PM
18
that's too effing expensive for a doener. in berlin, they go for about 2 euros, and they're not small. 3 to 3.50 in the trendier parts of town. and they're open late. very effing late. this is some bullshit. what i wouldn't give in this city for a REAL doener stand (or a real berliner... is that asking too much?)

for a real treat, doener im yufka with lots of pepper flakes is a killer cure after drinking all night.

btw, i would never rec the doener's @ turkish delight. gross, small and even more expensive than this shithole.
Posted by holz on October 15, 2010 at 5:21 PM
19
Holz, 2 euros is cheap, of course in Germany doners are made of shoe leather and horse entrails, so they pass the savings on to you that way.

Personally I am suspicious of dollar-menu food anywhere in the world.
Posted by Wood on October 15, 2010 at 10:45 PM
20
@holz; the reason that they are more expensive than in Germany is for a few reasons. comparing the two countries is like apples and oranges- In germany there is a large industry for doner and the kebabs ( the large skewered meat to roast)and sauces are easily purchased. Also most doner in Germany is served from small mobile stands, which likely need only a permit as opposed to a large space to lease . Whereas at the Berliner, fresh lamb is imported form Australia, sliced , marinated stacked on the skewer all by hand so there is the account for additional labor hours as well. Same thing with the bread. The owner went through a long process of trial and error working with a bakery to custom bake the fladenbrot, as that is not available in the US either. I know the Owner and his wife ( who is german) personally and they have worked long and hard to create an authentic product while keeping it as affordable as they can. They both work at each of the 2 locations every single day that they are open, alongside the employees. They have built this business at great personal risk and investment.( The majority of people in the US have never heard of a Doner before)
As for being open late... if you have ever been to pioneer square at night.. being open until 2 am would pose a risk to employees safety leaving at that hour in this neighborhood. However, they are now occasionally open until 10:30 after sounders games.

Also , if you'd like your comments to be taken seriously, you might consider omitting the swearing, and making a judgement about a business that you don't know the story behind
Posted by kiddoc88 on April 15, 2012 at 8:18 PM

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