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Tuesday, March 16, 2010

On the Occasion of the Canning of the Wall Street Journal's Restaurant Critic

Posted by on Tue, Mar 16, 2010 at 10:42 AM

...a piece in Time "In Praise of the Endangered Restaurant Critic."

Some middle-aged guy isn't writing reviews for the Wall Street Journal, a newspaper few knew even had a restaurant critic. So what?...

When you like a critic, you trust his judgment not because he has a Doctor of Food Letters, although such things do apparently exist. He's proved himself over a long period. You know what he (or she [hey, thanks, Time!]) likes or dislikes... For that, the user reviews on Citysearch or Yelp are beyond useless—faceless and contradictory; and the same goes for the blogs. (The blogs at least sometimes take pictures.) So there, in that whirlwind of trends and fad ingredients and hype and backlash, are a few immense ancient trees, with sturdy roots and massive trunks to hew to...

I disagree about Citysearch and Yelp and Stranger reader-reviews: When you know how to read them carefully (sorting out the obvious shilling by owners/friends of owners, finding the meaningful writeups among the heaps of b.s., getting an overall impression), they can be useful to a degree. And with blogs, you can form an opinion of the food blogger and thus trust or mistrust them accordingly (though Seattle does not suffer from a superabundance of great ones).

And calling restaurant reviewers "immense ancient trees" to be clung to in a "whirlwind" isn't doing them any favors.

Here at The Stranger, food writing doesn't have giant budgets or delusions of grandeur. We're just trying to send you to good places to eat—cheap ones, pricier ones, all kinds of ones—and give you something good to read along the way. God help us.

 

Comments (4) RSS

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Will in Seattle 1
We need special Game Guides for those of us who follow sports - a way to get a short list off bars and pubs with food and good hard cider in pints and draft that we can consult to follow the Sounders FC in and those other lesser sports like baseball (Mariners ftw!) and football (um, is it the Tiger Lilies?).

That would be nice.

And tell us how many giant screen TVs they have.
Posted by Will in Seattle http://www.facebook.com/WillSeattle on March 16, 2010 at 10:50 AM
2
Ultimately I'd like to see some food writing that doesn't make me a pariah for being vegetarian or condescend in the "quaint novelty" voice when reviewing a veg. restaurant (mentions of "fake meats" and how close they taste to their animal counterparts, rather than reviewing the quality of the flavor/food itself). For the most part the Stranger does a decent job of avoiding these tropes. However, I have noticed that whenever there's a vegetarian restaurant to be reviewed, you always send the one veg person you have on staff. Mix it up a bit.
Posted by j.lee on March 16, 2010 at 11:29 AM
3
I DO agree that yelp and city search are sort of useless. I find many of them to be either venomous or completely pointless. Many individuals use them as a platform to bitch and complain with complete unaccountability and anonymity. There are also so many reviews that sound good, and then at the end the person declares, "it was ok. I wouldn't go again." How is that supposed help at all! I like to read the reviews of people who supposedly know what they are talking about and have some background and understanding of the restaurant industry. Most people do not.
Posted by chichicastenango on March 16, 2010 at 11:53 AM
4
I'm sick of looking up Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurants on Yelp and finding a bunch of morons who give the place 2 stars because they "just can't get into injera."

If you don't like the cuisine in general, you have no right to review or rate individual establishments that serve it! If half of Yelp writers can't grasp this basic concept, why would I trust any of their opinions?
Posted by d.p. on March 16, 2010 at 4:59 PM

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