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Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Is This A Man's Garment or a Woman's?

Posted by on Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 1:42 PM

821-150gender.jpg

From the Henry's new digital archive of its costumes and textiles collections, which has a Google Earth component.

Here's a Norman Norell dress in the collection that Lauren Bacall wore.

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Future Henry collections to be archived this way online: Photography and New Media, and Northwest artists.

 

Comments (11) RSS

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1
Well, by the embroidery, I'd say it's European, and not many European female outfits I can think of involve a vest. The intricacy of the embroidery also leads me to think it was a garment meant to be seen, so even if someone tried to tell me this is some kind of obscure antique female underwear, I probably wouldn't believe it.

Nice collection. I think the collection could have chosen a more interesting example for gender identity than a waistcoat though (even if it's embroidered with flowers).

How about heeled shoes? Or Italian Renaissance doublet and hose? The move from hose to pants is definitely bigger than breeches to trousers.
Posted by Gloria on September 16, 2009 at 1:53 PM
2
@1: Ok, to be fair, I know fabrics tend to go first, and that most clothing that survives tend to come from no earlier than the 19th century.

In fact, I'm not sure I've ever seen a textile/costume collection with a genuine example of a full costume from anything earlier than the 18th-c at the most. Anyone know one?
Posted by Gloria on September 16, 2009 at 1:57 PM
NumberOne 3
That is a dandy's vest. I love that dress- how gorgeous! Thanks for posting this cool website.
Posted by NumberOne on September 16, 2009 at 2:14 PM
meowmeowkitty 4
It's a mans waistcoat, for sure. Eighteeth Century.

This is exciting! I can't wait to prowl through the collection.
Posted by meowmeowkitty on September 16, 2009 at 2:49 PM
Fnarf 5
@2, the Victoria and Albert would be the first place I'd start looking. And if you'll accept leather, wasn't that frozen dude in the Alps from 2,000 years ago wearing a pretty complete outfit?
Posted by Fnarf http://www.facebook.com/fnarf on September 16, 2009 at 3:31 PM
6
Of course it's a man's garment. Our dozen-times great grandfathers weren't afraid of colour the way the men today are.
Posted by Flaminica on September 16, 2009 at 4:21 PM
The Max 7
Man's. It buttons so that the wearer can unbutton a couple and slip his sword-hand in to keep it warm and supple. Late 18th Century. Probably French. I'd wear it.
Posted by The Max on September 16, 2009 at 5:55 PM
yucca flower 8
@ 3,

Ha! That wasn't a dandy's vest. This is a dandy's vest (waistcoat)!
Posted by yucca flower on September 16, 2009 at 6:05 PM
Fnarf 9
@7, Scottish.
Posted by Fnarf http://www.facebook.com/fnarf on September 16, 2009 at 6:36 PM
meowmeowkitty 10
@8 Drool.
Posted by meowmeowkitty on September 16, 2009 at 10:17 PM
11
@2, check out this doublet from the Met, dated 1620! Here's a pic: http://tiny.cc/DqOgd

Here is another example of a man's embroidered waistcoat: http://tinyurl.com/q2h54p

Posted by RAH on September 18, 2009 at 10:09 AM

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