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Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Chow I Never—Ever—Thought I Would Say This

Posted by on Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 11:54 AM

But for reasons involving gay bars and last call, this weekend I wound up at the 13 Coins—near Boren Avenue North and Denny Way—twice. Two nights in a row, even. It’s not just that nothing else nearby was open: I went back the second time because the food was amazing at the 13 Coins. And no, I can’t believe I just wrote that.

The topper—seems risky to order this—was the best calamari I’ve ever tasted. I wasn't just buzzed. Eating most calamari is like masticating thick rubber bands crusted with saltines. But at the 13 Coins, they cut strips from a hefty squid steak, which, when battered and fried, turned into crispy blond corkscrews that steamed from the center. The Caesar salad was umami-rich with anchovy.

How can this be? The interior looks like the bridge of the Starship Enterprise, upholstered in grandpa-brown leather, and is notorious for serving overpriced pablum from a food replicator.

The 13 Coins had gone downhill and lost customers for several years, says 13 Coins manager Spencer Fairbanks. “Customers said it wasn’t worth it.” But about a year ago, he says, Kassandra McGregor—formerly the executive chef at the Broadway Grill and the Red Lion—took over as the head chef.

“Now customers say that the flavor is back and the taste is back. It is kind of how they remember this place,” he says. “Everything is prepped here and made here. Nothing comes in a bag or a box or anything.”

And while many items on the menu are still exorbitantly priced ($50 New York steak, anyone?), some stuff is reasonable ($13 ham and cheese three-egg omelets with hash brown and toast, or a $20 chicken parmigiana that feeds two). The portions are massive, and it's impressive for American food when the birds are sleeping. Who knew?

 

Comments (25) RSS

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1
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

I am out of work - and a big fucking argument about unemployment

tell me, Dom, what I am missing

what a bunch of fucking yuppisssyies
Posted by Richard on December 31, 2008 at 11:56 AM
2
How about they try doing something smart and allowing "light" orders?

I'd gladly pay half price for a half portion.

I'm so sick and tired of having to dish out big $$ for "extra" food that I am forced into taking home to "justify" paying out that exorbitant sum.

Why can't restaurants pull their head out of their ass and just serve smaller portions for less price?

And the other recent trend I'm sick of... seeing Appetizers that are as much or more than entree items.

Aren't appetizers supposed to be a half portion for half the price also? Appetizers used to be $2.50 to $7.00.. they were supposed to whet your appetite! I laugh every time I see a menu that has only expensive appetizer options.

What a joke!
Posted by Reality Check on December 31, 2008 at 11:58 AM
3
13 Coins has the Best. Eggs Benedict. Ever. I don't even like the dish normally, and I'll happily order it there.
Posted by GrammarCop on December 31, 2008 at 12:07 PM
4
Have to agree about the Eggs Benedict.
Posted by Will in Seattle on December 31, 2008 at 12:08 PM
5
Nothing like having someone from the Broadway Grill come in to transform your restaurant from serving overpriced, bland food. Wow Broadway Grill. Are the waiters now flippant and saunter around the dining room too?
Posted by my unlucky number on December 31, 2008 at 12:12 PM
6
@ 5) Yeah, I don't know what to tell you. Broadway Grill isn't a culinary marvel, but I guess when McGregor has the budget for increased food costs, the food's better. The servers were sweet. Like I said, I was shocked.
Posted by Dominic Holden on December 31, 2008 at 12:23 PM
7
ooh gross, did you say a chef from broadway grill improved the flavor...btw, good calamari tastes as you described...there is a yummy happy hour at the bar in the triple door that serves the best half price calamari!
Posted by peaches on December 31, 2008 at 12:24 PM
8
one of the coolest things I've ever witnessed was sitting at the bar at 13 coins in SeaTac and watching three cooks go fucking nuts - cooking and arguing. It was awesome. Despite the dbag protestations from a couple above, I really like 13 Coins. Good times.
Posted by cowboy on December 31, 2008 at 12:24 PM
9
Randall's the best waiter there, by far!
Posted by raindrop on December 31, 2008 at 12:27 PM
10
Whatever happened with that labor dispute Bethany Jean reported on earlier this year? Something about disappearing health benefits and picketing and stuff?
Posted by tomasyalba on December 31, 2008 at 12:34 PM
11
The calimari steak (yes, indeed - it's a STEAK) at the 13 Coins has long been a best kept secret... Melt in your mouth tender and absolutely delicious. It's been the only thing worth ordering there for many years now (I've never tried the eggs benedict, so perhaps I've been missing out). Good to know the new chef and management haven't messed that up.
Posted by juliyeti on December 31, 2008 at 12:47 PM
12
Yeah, supposedly they totally screwed over their workers who were trying to unionize or something like that. My unionized workplace had posters up from the 13 Coins employees asking us not to patronize the place.
Posted by leek on December 31, 2008 at 12:48 PM
13
I'm still reeling from the admission that The Broadway Grill has an Executive Chef. Particularly love the $10 iceberg lettuce wedges and mayo.
Posted by demolator on December 31, 2008 at 12:52 PM
14
Face it, you were stoned.

In that condition, a bag of Fritos would have done quite nicely--of course, 13 Coins would be manna from heaven.
Posted by NapoleonXIV on December 31, 2008 at 1:14 PM
15
Nope, Nappy, I wasn't stoned. That shit freaks me out.
Posted by Dominic Holden on December 31, 2008 at 1:23 PM
16

COMMENT DELETED: Spam/Off-Topic

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Posted by randy on December 31, 2008 at 1:34 PM
17
Everyone! Richard is unemployed! Be considerant.

I don't think The Stranger should talk about anything that costs money until Richard gets a job.

Bible Study Time!!!!
Posted by Richard Needs a Job! on December 31, 2008 at 1:48 PM
18
13 Coins is awesome. It reminds me of Original Joe's in San Francisco. Great place to get a late night bite.
Posted by Vince on December 31, 2008 at 2:09 PM
19
What's so great about the EB? I can't stand places that just pour the hollandaise all over the plate it like it's a bowl of soup, just a nice glomp on each egg please!
Posted by bob on December 31, 2008 at 2:10 PM
20
Many wonderful memories about 13 Coins. For years, it was THE only place to eat after midnight (or maybe even 10PM). Always packed late at night and always a little pricey. But the food was served up nicely and there were crudites and bread before you even ordered. It was Seattle's original bistro.

For fans of old Seattle, ya gotta love 13 Coins. And BTW, I loved the crab sandwich and the oyster omelette.
Posted by Bauhaus on December 31, 2008 at 4:02 PM
21
IN THE OLD DAYS, 13 COINS WAS THE BEST LATE NIGHT SCORE IN THE CITY ...

A VERY LATE CROWD, FOOD WAS THE COVER
Posted by ANNA on December 31, 2008 at 4:07 PM
22
ugh, you totally sold me with the thick strips of calamari, damn you!
Posted by Hunter on December 31, 2008 at 4:17 PM
23
It is pricey, but everything on the menu is just the right size for two people. Go dutch on something you can both agree on and you're doing good.


I was at the 13 Coins a few weeks ago and it was great. I like the one in SeaTac better, though.

Posted by Matt Fuckin' Hickey on December 31, 2008 at 4:22 PM
24
A considerable amount of my youth was misspent there long long ago... fond memories... Joe's Special followed by made-to-order zabaglione!!
Posted by MarkyMark on December 31, 2008 at 4:59 PM
25
13 Coins is a Seattle institution, like Jazz Alley, or the Doghouse....from back in the day. My fondest 13C memory: best friend and I in high school going there once at midnight and eating at the counter and talking to the cook about how long he had to work in the restaurant's kitchen to earn the seniority to work on that counter (6 years at the time). I have never had a bad meal at the Seatac Coins. The carbonara's divine. Pay $2.50 extra to split it between two people... it gets a lot cheaper.
Posted by JME on December 31, 2008 at 6:41 PM

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