On the NYTimes' Well blog, health writer Tara Parker-Pope asks whether it makes sense to pay extra for an organic Thanksgiving. The shocking conclusion? "It may cost you ... as much as $100 extra." The "organic premium"—actually more than $125, for a meal serving eight—came from an analysis by SmartMoney magazine, which went to three Manhattan supermarkets in search of organic and non-organic items for a hypothetical Thanksgiving meal.
Let's assume for the moment that the magazine's numbers are right—that buying organic is going to cost you substantially more than a conventional Thanksgiving. With budgets tightening, there any argument for sticking with organics? Parker-Pope concludes that the answer is, basically, no. Avoid the worst pesticide offenders, she suggests—among them apples, milk, and celery—and you're fine buying the ordinary grocery-store versions of everything else.
She's wrong. First of all, there's a basic problem with SmartMoney's pricing. Anyone who buys organics on a regular basis will find the prices the magazine cited suspiciously high. For example, their 20-pound turkey cost $4.99 a pound, compared to a dollar-a-pound conventional Butterball. I ordered my own organic turkey from the local PCC, and it cost just $3.49 a pound—a difference of $30. Even a heritage turkey was cheaper. Wine prices, similarly, seemed arbitrary—$24 a bottle for organic, vs. $17 for non-organic. Even at the Manhattan Whole Foods—where they shopped for many of the organic items—I'm betting you can find plenty of good organic wines for less than $24.
But leaving aside the question of price itself, Parker-Pope's whole premise—that if you can avoid pesticides, you might as well buy conventional—assumes that the only benefits of buying organic are individual health benefits. This ignores many other benefits of buying organic—only some of them selfish.
First, Butterball turkeys (a breed known as Broad-Breasted White that makes up 99 percent of turkeys consumed in the United States) are seriously disgusting. Plumped up with hormones and made top-heavy by genetic engineering, they're raised in filthy, crowded cages where they suffer for the duration of their artificially short lives. They're too front-loaded to have sex, so they have to be inseminated by hand; if they lived longer than a year, they would be unable to forage, walk, or fly. Mass production has made most turkeys we consume essentially tasteless; hence the advent of the "self-basting" turkey—an injection of salt water that mimics the juiciness of naturally raised, free-range turkey meat. So there's a selfish reason to buy organic and heritage turkey—it tastes better! Same goes for local, organic produce—there's a reason subscriptions to Community Supported Agriculture programs have been skyrocketing in recent years (despite some naysayers who don't like the quantities or selection of their local CSAs), and it isn't just altruism or nostalgia for family farms. Celery from a local, organic farm just tastes more like celery than anything you've ever imagined could be possible (or tomatoes, or winter squash, or whatever).
Beyond your individual dining experience, though, there's the fact that supporting organic farms actually helps the whole food system—and, in time, will make organic produce less expensive. Buying organic produce from community farms helps preserve farmland from sprawl and sustains local businesses. Buying organics from big corporations is more controversial (because it arguably opens the door for more-lax standards and Big Ag driving out family farms), but even that argument may be beside the point—after announcing plans to double its organic food selection in 2006, Wal-Mart retreated from its big organic push just one year later, citing the failure of a larger strategy to lure in "high-end" consumers.
So starting November 14th, expect
spectacular displays as we bring in a
limited selection of the freshest, highest
quality All Natural Turkeys. Our
birds never receive any antibiotics
or growth hormones, are minimally
processed with NO artificial ingredients
and have been raised on 100%
vegetarian feed. They are delivered
to us fresh (never frozen) from U.S.
farms. And they come brined with
all natural sea salt or Kosher salt, to
ensure juicy, tender meat. (We did
say, “highest quality.”) Of course,
we don’t believe that should preclude
unrivaled value. So we’re selling our
Fresh, Young, Brined All Natural
Turkeys for $1.79 per pound (birds
ranging in size from 12-20 lbs) and
our Fresh, Young, Glatt Kosher
All Natural Turkeys for $2.29 per
pound (12-16 lb birds). Some might
consider it patriotism, others good
trade, but regardless, it’s a boon to
all who partake. So don’t be a turkey!
(Now that was goading...)
Comments (42) RSS