Ethan Stowell’s latest brainchild, How to Cook a Wolf, is located on top of Queen Anne and derives its name from an M.F.K. Fisher book. Not as casual as Tavolata and less formal than Union, the atmosphere is cozy and ebullient. There are a handful of tables along the south wall, but the space is primarily focused on a cork-lined bar where patrons can sit and eat and catch glimpses of the action in the tiny kitchen. The room is softly lit, with a warm glow from the copper that lines the elegant, curving plank walls. It feels like you’ve just walked into a secret.

But first, the waiting.

No reservations means you’ll have some time to kill before feasting. While I had heard that the folks at nearby Opal were amenable to expectant diners having a drink at their bar while waiting, I did feel a little guilty while sipping on a glass of Prosecco. The contrast could not have been greater between the lofty, silent space I sat in when compared with the cacophonous, packed house next door. It was an awkward hour.

I generally appreciate Stowell’s approach to food, and the dishes at HtCaW do not stray far from his usual flavor profiles—delicate pastas, rich sauces and simple ingredients. The scallops were perfectly seared, the polenta cakes baked and bathed in buttery glory. The chard agnolotti with aged balsamic was the highlight of the meal. Each bite was screaming with impossible flavor; how can ricotta taste this amazing?

The umbricelli with pork bolognese was less successful (the sauce did not cling well to the slightly twisted noodles), but still managed to impress with a generous pile of reggiano grated on top. There was also a hiccup with the wine (they didn’t have the bottle I finally decided on, and the suggested replacement was light years away from my desires). But kinks and all: Has it been three months yet?

Big thanks to Lindsay for the photo assist

With small plates and reimagined menus, a trip up the Counterbalance for an evening at How to Cook a Wolf will likely not be the same experience twice. But you probably knew that already. If you’re a fan of Stowell’s you know what to expect, and it’s definitely worth the wait.

Hey! Have you heard that the Stranger Restaurant guide now has Reader Reviews?! Why don’t you head on over and say something nice about Café Presse!!