I'd go to Tulum, it's really beautiful there (Mayan ruins on a beach, beautiful beaches). It's not so much of a city, but I can't imagine a better place to be. There aren't too many Americans there, either--mostly vacationing Europeans (who aren't as bad, right?). Although, Hurricane Rita went through there (it's on the Yucatan Peninsula) so you might call some places ahead to make sure everything's cleaned up and open again.

Vacationing Europeans can be just as bad—or worse—than vacationing Americans. Have you ever been in a town over run by, say, e-popping, beer-pounding, slag-shagging, British tourists? Or on a beach thick with cig-smoking naked Germans? Ugh. I'll take a fat American family of four in matching over-size t-shirts anyday.

I really meant "obnoxious tourists." I just didn't imagine finding many Europeans in Mexico.

Veracruz, on the Gulf side, is a lovely, local, coastal destination. Ability to speak Spanish is recommended.

I'd definitely go with the Gulf Coast. I spent three weeks backpacking through the eastern portion of the country and didn't see a single American the whole time. Tampico on the Gulf was verrrry hot and sticky, Poza Rica has amazing pyramids, Jalapa is cool, mountainous and urbane and has a branch of the Museum of Anthropology, etc, etc. Just stay away from all the resorts on the Pacific coast. Yuck.

The carribean coast around Tulum is incredible. There is a sweet little resort on the beach (family owned, totally not large or corporate shite) called Villas del Mar. They have a great restaurant that is this open air palapa thing right on the beach, great civeche and drinks. I'm in love with it. Survived Emily and Katrina OK. Their website is http://www.xpuhahotel.com. Have fun!

I would split a few days between Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido, which is an easy bus or local plane away. Oaxaca is one of the cultural centers of Mexico and the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera for much of their lives. Great food, great markets, and no cars in the city core! Puerto Escondido is over the mountain range on the Oaxaca coast. A town of about 50,000--it is just right. Known as the surfing capital of Mexico it features great beaches, fun bars and just enough tourism to make things a little easier. In general, Mexico is known for a "hippie trail" between Mexico City and the Yucatan, with Europeans going one way and Americans the other. In general, I have always found Oaxaca and Chiapas to be full of great food, interesting politics and great history. Have fun!